By Trae Bodge and Chris Napierala
We’d been hearing about Croatia’s beauty for several years. Friends would return starry-eyed about the place, but we’d also heard that it had become a go-to destination, which meant crowds in high season. No thanks. Then we started planning a trip to celebrate our daughter Sadie’s high school graduation, and Croatia bubbled to the top. We’d just heard too many rave reviews, and since we’d be traveling in early September, the tail end of high season, we’d miss the masses. Plus, Croatia has castles, Sadie’s one request.
Days 0 & 1
Split, the country’s second-largest city, dates to the 3rd Century BCE and sits on those beautiful Adriatic waters against the backdrop of the Mosor Mountains. We arrived late afternoon on what we’ll call Day 0. Renting a car at the airport was a breeze. (Squeezing it through narrow sidestreets and a narrower driveway at the AirBnB was not.) We spent the night strolling the charming white-marble streets and alleys of Old Town, a maze of centuries-old limestone buildings populated with shops and restaurants. The social and cultural heart of Old Town: the grand ruins of Diocletian’s Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
A short walk from the palace, we had a lovely al fresco dinner with a bottle of Croatian sparkling Rose at the well-reviewed Fig Split restaurant. Like most restaurants where we ate on the trip, prices were comparable to where we live in New Jersey and nearby New York City. So, not cheap. Given more time, we would have ventured beyond Old Town for more affordable food where locals eat.
Next morning, a scenic hour-plus drive through the foothills of the mountain range to check out the breathtaking waterfalls at Krka National Park. We bought tickets in advance, and check-in was quick and easy. Rather than ride a shuttle bus to the falls, we walked 15 minutes or so down a winding path through the woods. The brilliant-blue Krka River below is a stunner.
The falls site begins at an old water mill set among fish-filled brooks, pools, and low-lying cascades that spill into Krka Falls, which are not yet visible. The walking path that takes you from the mill through that little wonderland was fairly congested with fellow tourists, but a minor inconvenience. And the falls? A gem. Blue and broad and powerful. We’d brought our bathing suits to swim in the massive plunge pool at the base of the falls–we’d seen photos!–turns out swimming is no longer permitted, But the falls are spectacular, and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. Since the uphill walk back to the parking lot was a bit of a hump, we hopped the bus. We’d love to return during true off-season to experience the falls without the crowds and explore more of the park.
After Krka, on the return drive to Split, we stopped at Klis Fortress, a sprawling edifice built in the 2nd century BCE. (Another GOT location.) We purchased tickets at the door without a wait. A fun place to explore for an hour or so, with fantastic views of the villages below and the coastline and Split in the distance. BTW, if you’re a cat person, you’ll be in heaven–no shortage of friendly strays sunning and wandering about the grounds.
Last stop, dinner at Perlica, a deservedly popular restaurant just down the road that is known for its traditional regional dishes, including spit-roasted lamb and squid-ink risotto. Chris and Sadie indulged in the lamb–loved it–and Trae had vegetables roasted “under the bell”–a traditional Croatian cooking method that imparts a smokey flavor, and baked breaded cheese. (Yum!)
Day 2
A perfect sunny day. Having booked a midday speedboat tour, we took a short late-morning drive to Kasjuni Beach, at the bottom of the Marjan Forest west of city center, for our first dip in the Adriatic. There is a beachside bar and reservable cabanas and lounge chairs, but since that was already a scene, we walked over to a charming little pebbled cove and settled in with a dozen or so like-minded beachgoers. Gorgeous setting, turquoise water, sublime.
Our five-hour speedboat tour left from the Split waterfront and stopped first at another UNESCO site and GOT location, Trogir. Its medieval Old Town is a smaller version of Split’s, packed with restaurants and shops. A fortress at the edge of Old Town is also worth a visit. We only had an hour-ish in Trogir, and would have loved to stay longer. Then we zipped off to the famous Blue Lagoon on Krknjasi Bay for lunch and snorkeling. The beach cafe had very good food, even better cocktails, and the water was indeed a brilliant blue, but the reef was dead and had scant fish life. Fun swimming around, but as former scuba divers, the snorkeling was disappointing. Last stop, a pleasant stroll around the quaint island village of Maslinica, then a fast-charging ride home as the sun set behind us.
Day 3
In the morning, we packed up and left our little apartment in Split for a leisurely four-hour drive down the coast for Trae’s birthday.
And wow–wow (wow)–what a drive. Glorious ocean views for miles and miles along the coast, a verdant inland valley of farmland, small river towns, then more coastal bliss. Just a fantastic day! We wanted a little beach time on the way, and after a couple of miscues, landed in a sweet little beach town–apologies, forgot the name–where we lounged under an umbrella and swam in that crystal-clear water. As we drove on, the water kept calling, so we pulled off at a little dirt footpath just north of Podaca and walked down to a secluded little beach, and floated for a few. This was a perfect setting, but be aware: half of this beach is for nudists. It’s immediately evident which side is which, so turn left or right depending on your preference.
En route to the ancient village of Ston, in the gorgeous valley, we stopped at one of the many roadside farmstands selling fresh olive oil, fruit, and fresh fruit juices. A pleasant surprise. We bought some of each for our own consumption and for gifts.
Then Ston, which boasts the second-longest fortified wall in the world. 5.5 kilometers, after the Great Wall of China. While we didn’t walk the wall–we needed food, plus Trae’s afraid of heights–it was something to behold, even from a distance. So we wandered the village, which has a small fortress and several wonderfully fragrant restaurants, and drove a few minutes to Mali Ston, a small fishing village known for its oysters. The seafood at Kapetanova Kuća, adjacent to the oyster beds, was delightful all around, from prawns and risotto to oysters harvested fresh that day. Beautiful setting, and a nice way to set off on the hour’s drive to the ancient walled city of Dubrovnik, “The Pearl of the Adriatic” and another UNESCO site.
We arrived at our rental apartment in the beach town of Lapad, a 15-minute drive from Dubrovnik’s Old Town. A good spot for us and our rental car.
Day 4
The day was nearly a total washout on account of nearly five inches of rain, which was torrential most of the day. Before the rain hit, we dashed to the nearby grocery store to pick up hunker-down provisions for working, reading, and Netflix. When the rain let up a bit, we ventured out for a stroll on a pedestrian path that runs along the water near Uvala Lapad Beach. The views were stunning, so we were happy to walk in the light drizzle.
Day 5
Our last full day, and we made the most of it. We UBERed to one of Dubrovnik’s Old Town entrances–no cars are permitted inside–and found a staircase up to the famous 1.2-miles of wall that enclose the historic district and rise up to six stories. We had purchased tickets in advance, so entry was again easy. It was a bit crowded up there, so we were glad that we came when we did and not just two weeks earlier during high season. Walking the walls came highly recommended, and it was clear why. The views of Old Town and the Adriatic, which at times was immediately below, were arresting, and we took many (many) photos!
After the wall, we strolled through Old Town, visited the location for the famed “Walk of Shame” from GOT, and took our UBER driver’s recommendation for lunch at Burger House Republic, which had delicious sandwiches stuffed with your choice of seasoned, fried seafood loosely mashed into a burger. We’re not doing it justice – it was damn good.
Then, a 15-minute ferry ride to Lokrum Island, which became an instant favorite. For starters: peacocks. Families of them roaming the island. Is there anything cuter than a baby peacock? There was a nice climb to an old fortress–another GOT location–tree-lined walking paths, and the otherworldly limestone “beach” pocked with tidal pools to dip into. Or, if you’re bolder, ladders into the roiling ocean. And a sweet, sweet interior swimming hole with a small beach. We took the ferry back to Dubrovnik and had a cocktail at Buza Bar, which is built into a cliffside below the Old Town wall. You can jump into the ocean from the seating area. Which Chris did.
Day 6
Since our flight home from Split was in the late afternoon, we packed up in the morning and took our time driving the 3-plus hours to the airport. We stopped in a sweet little beach town (sorry, can’t remember the name!) to do a little shopping and gaze again at the beautiful water–we were lucky enough to spy a baby octopus!–before piling back into the car for the remainder of what is surely among the most picturesque stretches of road we’ve experienced.
We all agreed that we could have used another couple of days to check out some of the vintage shops and museums in Dubrovnik, explore more neighborhoods and towns, eat more food. And maybe take another boat trip.
Someday…
How we saved on travel & activities
Airfare: Before we purchase airline tickets, we start our search with Google Flights, which provides a long list of flights and the ability to move your dates forward or back to compare prices. Then we’ll look at an aggregator like Expedia and compare those prices with the airline’s website as well as with a credit card travel portal like American Express Travel. We are also careful to use the credit card with the best benefit, like our United Visa for United flights.
Airbnb vs hotel: It was important to us to have a rental car, and we read that parking in Split and in Dubrovnik is very tricky. So we sought hotels and Airbnb’s that offered free parking. We found that most hotels that offer parking charge a daily fee. And since the Airbnb’s we considered had kitchens, which covered breakfast and reheating leftovers, that option ended up being less expensive than a hotel.
Rental car: We used Expedia to research and compare prices. We also opted for a small car, because while bigger cars can be more comfortable, European streets can seem mercilessly narrow if you’re not used to them. And when you’re choosing a rental company, consider whether or not they charge for an additional driver. Some do, some don’t. With Avis, we were able to add a spouse for free. Plus, Avis was on-site at the airport, which we prefer because it saves time.
Tickets: The speedboat tour required tickets in advance, and we had read that it was best to purchase advance tickets to Krka National Park. In both cases, shopping around led us to the least expensive ticket options. We found that prices vary from site to site, and some charged exorbitant processing fees.
So, do some digging –you’ll be glad you did.
How we save on food & beverages
FOOD: Because snacks are so expensive at the airport, we brought snacks from home. In Croatia, we bought breakfast foods and snacks at grocery stores near the Airbnb’s, which we found to be quite good. (Shout-out to the roaster chickens and the roasted pork belly at Tommy, a regional chain supermarket.)
We brought a couple of insulated bags with us, which allowed us to pack up leftovers for lunch and snacks. Next time, we’ll also bring an ice pack – we ended up having to McGuyver some ice cubes by freezing water in paper cups because our first Airbnb didn’t have ice cube trays.;-)
BEVERAGES: Instead of buying bottled water, we brought insulated water bottles to fill at the airport and throughout our travels. Remember to research water quality at your destination. Sometimes buying water is a necessary expense, assuming you want to avoid digestive issues on your trip.
We were also careful to check the prices of wines by the glass vs. a full bottle. Like in the States, bottles were always cheaper and a better option if you plan to have 3-4 glasses of wine amongst your party.
Trae hates to be without her morning coffee – and to pay exorbitant barista prices! – so she always brings some ground coffee and powdered creamer if we’re staying somewhere with a kitchen or kitchenette.
She also usually brings a travel mug with a French press incorporated into it. That way, if there is no coffee maker, you can make your own. She didn’t bring hers this time and regretted it. She made do with instant coffee from the grocery store, and we bought tea bags for Chris and Sadie as well.
