My friend and colleague, Jennifer Walsh, and I had the great privilege of traveling to Shelby County, KY, for a press weekend. From bourbon tasting on the bourbon trail to eating renowned dishes from family-owned eateries to luxuriating in a gorgeous Airbnb on a family-run farm, there was so much to enjoy. We fell in love with the place, and I wanted to share my favorite activities and meals of the trip in case you have a chance to visit.
Shelby County is 40 miles outside of Louisville.
Where We Stayed
We stayed at Harbison House, a family-owned Airbnb and farm. The house, built around 1870, has recently undergone a gorgeous renovation while retaining the original charm.
The house has four bedrooms, each with its own bathroom (some with clawfoot tubs), a large dining room, and plenty of indoor and outdoor spaces to lounge and relax. There are also additional sleeping accomodation, including a queen sofa bed and two twin-sized rollaway beds.
The house includes absolutely everything a traveler might need, from thoughtful amenities in the bathrooms, to a kitchen and butler’s pantry stocked with a coffee bar, ice maker, cookware, and serving essentials. In fact, the only thing we wanted for was better Wi-Fi.
Breakfasts
Weathered Farms Bakery
This bustling, homey cafe is known for its sourdough cinnamon rolls, which absolutely lived up to the hype. They were massive and served slightly warm. Delicious. Also on the menu was a Honey Latte (my first), and it was heavenly. I need to figure out how to make one.
Farm Kitchen
Farm Kitchen is family-owned and operated; in fact, the kids serve the food! I’m all for teaching kids about working and earning money, so I heartily approved.
Farm Kitchen is known for its biscuits & gravy and delicious meats sourced from the family farm. The biscuits & gravy were the most flavorful that I’ve ever had. The portions are massive—we barely made a dent in our half-portions and we were full for hours!
Lunches & Dinners
B&N Food Market
This 3rd-generation family-owned-and-run spot is in the tiny hamlet of Bagdad. Before the pandemic, it was solely a bustling market, but the owner started dabbling in cooking, learning from the best of the best on the barbecue circuit and now they serve food from a lunch counter. We had a chance to taste a wide variety of items, and the food —a blend of new recipes and old family favorites —was absolutely scrumptious.
Standouts for me were the pork ribs and the brisket (I don’t typically eat beef, but had to have a taste), and the desserts—especially a pineapple cake with cream cheese frosting and the pecan pie. If you visit B&N, prepare to stand in a long line to order and have a friend snag a table inside or out. And go early, they serve until the food runs out, which can happen pretty quickly, I’m told.
The Bell House
This restaurant in downtown Shelbyville was where I had my first Hot Brown, which is comprised of toast points, roasted turkey, creamy cheese sauce, and sliced tomato baked in a single-serve au gratin dish. This casserole was cozy, oozy, and delicious. I also had my first Kentucky Mule, which substitutes bourbon for rum—loved it!
Dos Mundos
I am often suspicious of fusion restaurants – can you master both foods really well? – but this Peruvian and Vietnamese fusion restaurant blew us away. Everything was stellar. The Corn Ribs (pictured) were really unique… essentially corn on the cob cut into quarters, fried, and served like ribs. I had a scrumptious duck breast with rice, and we had several mouth-watering appetizers, including buns and tuna tartar. The drinks were also delicious—the Pisco Sour was a standout.
Bourbon Tasting
Kentucky makes 97 percent of the world’s bourbon, and the bourbon trail is a tourist draw. We had a chance to do tastings at two distilleries during our visit to Shelby County.
Jeptha Creed
On our tour, we learned that Jeptha Creed is the only mother/daughter-owned bourbon distillery. The family has farmed in the area for over 300 years, and several generations work for the company. Despite being family-owned, Jeptha Creed is a well-oiled machine. Our marketing minds were impressed by the efficient and engaging storytelling during the tour.
All products are hand-bottled and labeled, and the company has a “ground to glass” approach, with all ingredients grown locally or sourced as locally as possible, and using no additives or preservatives. Jeptha Creed is known for its use of Bloody Butcher corn, which is harder to grow and yields less than traditional corn but has more protein, a nutty-sweet flavor, and a creamy, buttery mouthfeel in bourbon.
Bulleit
Diageo, a multinational beverage company, owns Bulleit, so the distillery has a more corporate vibe. The common space has Kentucky charm with lots of dark wood and cathedral ceilings, so it didn’t feel stale or anything, but the vibe wasn’t as homey or authentic feeling as Jeptha Creed. The tour focused more on their bourbon-making process rather than history. After a tour of the factory, we were given a sensory tasting, with changing lighting and scent orbs you would smell throughout.
They were having a fall festival when we went, with a solid country band, local crafts, and food trucks. After our tasting, we enjoyed a delicious Old Fashioned on the deck and drank in the atmosphere.
Horses
Shelby County is incredibly scenic, and Jennifer and I marveled at all the horse farms as we drove from place to place. Lucky for us, we had three different up-close-and-personal horse-related experiences on our trip (read my caveat below).
Red Fern Riding Center
Our first horse experience of the trip. On the day we were there, we took an hour-long Nature Ride with one of our hosts, and the well-kept stables and trail ride were professionally and mindfully run by a team of young ladies. Jennifer used to ride as a teen and was dying to take off at a clip, but she followed the rules and stayed with the tour. I would consider myself an animal person; however, the trail ride reminded me that I am someone unsure around horses. I also had my left hip replaced in July, and while my physical therapist cleared me to ride, I was probably more nervous than usual. I had fun, but I was also quietly terrified. Would I recommend Red Fern Riding Center? Absolutely. Will I ride a horse again? Not so sure.
Lettleiki Icelandic Horse Farm
Lettleiki Farm is unusual because it specializes in Icelandic horses rather than breeds that originated in the US. It’s the largest Icelandic horse farm in North America. We had a great time with owner Maggie Brandt, learning about what makes these beautiful horses special, including the fact that they have a double coat, are smaller than average American horses. They are very trusting animals due to the lack of predators in Iceland.
At Lettleiki, they breed, train, and compete with the Icelandic horses. They’ve had many champions, including two stallions that serve as models for two popular Breyer Horses, collectible model horses. Lettleiki is a great place to visit to see these small and mighty horses, or if you are local, train on them.
Horsesensing
We also visited Horsesensing, a residential program for male veterans and men in recovery. During their free stay at the farm, residents recover while learning skills that will help them find employment after completing the program. The Horsesensing team also assists clients with housing and job placement, post-program. The team is led by the dynamic Dr. Sally Broder, who was kind enough to give us a tour. She also gave me a lesson about horse behaviours, which helped me feel less unsure around them!
There are lots of events and activities at the farm, so it’s a fun place to visit. Horsesensing is also a 501(c)(3), so if you are looking for a good cause to support, definitely consider supporting them!
Shopping & Other Actitivies
SHOPPING
We spent some time perusing the shops in Shelbyville’s Science Hill, and we really enjoyed it.
Wakefield-Scearce Galleries is housed in a historic building that was the former home of the Science Hill School for Girls. It was a favorite, with its seemingly endless rooms filled with English antiques, elaborate holiday decorations, and quirky home items. Jennifer picked up a charming pitcher shaped like a fox.
We popped into the brand-new Mid Mod Furnishings, which had beautiful, surprisingly well-priced mid-Century home décor. They had so many cute things!
Another favorite was Pineapple Paisley, which had colorful pattered dresses, tops, and comfy basics. There was a blouse so ME that I ended up dashing back to buy it the next day between meetings. You can see me wearing the blouse in a couple of the photos!
We also went to Little Mount Lavender in Simpsonville. This store/restaurant/event space is heaven for the lavender lover, with everything from lavender-infused beauty products to lavender simple syrup (a delicious additive for cooking and cocktails).
The restaurant boasts an exciting French menu, and lavender is used creatively in many of the dishes and cocktails. They also have interactive events where you can make your own candles or bath salts.
ACTIVITIES
Kentucky Black Trailblazers interactive experience
If you enjoy history, look for these 19 installations across Kentucky. When you locate an installation, you scan the QR code with your phone to witness an augmented reality experience featuring a Black figure, group, or place of historical significance. There are three such installations in Shelby County alone, featuring Elijah P. Marrs, Harlem Hellfighters, and Whitney M. Young, Jr. Visit KentuckyBlackTrailblazers.com to learn more.
Gallrein Farms
This third-generation farm and farm store is a fun place to visit with the family from April through October when they are open. There are lots of activities, including a petting zoo, friendly dogs roaming the property, pumpkin picking, and plenty of photo ops, including a straw tower and pumpkin house. Their farm store is packed with farm produce, Gallrein brand salsas and pickles, along with baked goods, sandwiches, sodas, and other local treats.
We had a chance to learn a bit about the farm and its history from Gabriella Gallrein, who married into the Gallrein family and serves as an excellent ambassador.
**Jennifer Walsh and I were hosted for most activities and meals. This did not affect my recommendations.
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